Three very different islands
The three inhabited islands off the Yucatán Peninsula's Caribbean coast all belong to the state of Quintana Roo, and each feels completely different. Cozumel is big, with a real town, an airport and some of the best-known diving in the Caribbean, plus several cruise ships most days. Isla Mujeres is small and walkable, a short hop from Cancún, with one of the calmest beaches in the region. Holbox is a sandy-streeted, car-free village on the edge of a nature reserve, slower to reach and worth it.
All three are covered by the State Department's Level 2 rating for Quintana Roo. On the islands, the realistic risks for visitors are mostly on the road and on the water: scooter and golf cart crashes, boats without enough life jackets, and rough crossings. See safety for the full picture.
| If you are... | Choose | Why |
|---|---|---|
| A scuba diver | Cozumel | Drift dives along reef walls in a national marine park, dozens of dive shops |
| Staying in Cancún with one free day | Isla Mujeres | Twenty minutes by ferry; easy to do on your own |
| A family with young kids | Isla Mujeres or Cozumel | Playa Norte's shallow water; Cozumel's parks and all-inclusives |
| A couple wanting quiet and nature | Holbox | No cars, sunsets over the water, flamingos and bioluminescence |
| Hoping to swim with whale sharks | Isla Mujeres or Holbox | Both are tour bases from about June to mid-September |
| Avoiding sargassum | Holbox, Cozumel's west coast or Playa Norte | Less exposed than the Riviera Maya's open beaches, though none is immune |
| Needing easy flights and medical care | Cozumel | Its own international airport and the most services |
Cozumel
Cozumel is Mexico's largest Caribbean island, about 30 miles (48 km) long and 10 miles (16 km) wide, 12 miles (19 km) off Playa del Carmen. Almost everyone lives in the town of San Miguel on the west coast. The west side faces the mainland and is sheltered, which is where the reefs, beach clubs and hotels are. The east side faces the open Caribbean and is wild, windy and mostly undeveloped.
Getting to Cozumel by ferry
Passenger ferries leave from the main pier at the end of Calle 1 Sur in Playa del Carmen, a short walk from Fifth Avenue, and arrive at the downtown pier in San Miguel. The crossing takes about 45 minutes. Winjet and Xcaret Xailing run the regular crossings; Ultramar also sells Playa–Cozumel tickets, including a two-island pass that adds Isla Mujeres.
| Operator | One way, adult | Round trip, adult | Child | Schedule |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Winjet | MX$335 from Playa (includes Playa's environmental fee); MX$310 from Cozumel | MX$645 (about $35) | MX$265 / MX$240 one way | Roughly hourly; last boats 8 p.m. from Playa, 7 p.m. from Cozumel |
| Xcaret Xailing | $16 (quoted in dollars) | $32 | $12 one way, ages 5–11 | Hourly, on the half hour |
Buy at winjet.mx, at xcaret.com or at the ticket booths by the pier. Round-trip tickets usually lock you into the same company for the return. Both operators trimmed early and late crossings in October 2026, so check the last departure for your date before you plan a late dinner on the island.
Insider tip
The Cozumel channel can be choppy, especially in the afternoon and during winter cold fronts. If you're prone to seasickness, take medication 30–60 minutes before boarding, sit low and toward the middle, and pick a morning crossing.
Flying to Cozumel
Cozumel International Airport (CZM) is about 2 miles from downtown. Nonstop flights connect it with Atlanta, Charlotte, Chicago O'Hare, Dallas–Fort Worth, Denver, Houston, Miami and Minneapolis, though some routes are seasonal, so check before you plan around one. Flying straight in saves the airport transfer, the drive to Playa and the ferry, which adds up to two to three hours each way via Cancún.
Getting around
Taxis are plentiful and charge fixed fares by zone; agree on the price before you get in. To circle the island and reach the east coast, rent a car or Jeep for a day. Scooters are cheap and popular, but they're also how many visitors get hurt on Cozumel. Your US health insurance may not cover you here (see health).
Diving and snorkeling
Cozumel's reefs sit inside a national marine park, and the signature experience is the drift dive: you drop onto a reef wall and let the current carry you along while the boat follows. Famous sites include Palancar, Columbia and Santa Rosa Wall. Operators collect the national park fee and arrange gear, so choose a shop with good safety reviews and small groups. Beginners can take a discover-scuba course; the currents mean newer divers should ask for gentler sites.
The reefs have taken real damage from coral disease, warm-water bleaching and heavy traffic. A UNAM scientist warned in October 2026 that the Mexican Caribbean has lost more than 70% of its coral. Use mineral sunscreen or a rash guard, never touch or stand on coral, and don't feed fish.
Snorkelers can reach good reef from shore along the west coast or take a boat trip to El Cielo, a shallow sandbar known for starfish. Don't lift the starfish out of the water; it can kill them.
Parks and sights
Chankanaab
A national park around a lagoon with an easy snorkeling cove, underwater statues, beach loungers and gardens. Entry is $31 or MX$589 for adults and $22 for ages 4–12; snorkel gear is $15 for the day. Dolphin and manatee encounters cost extra. Open Monday–Saturday, 8 a.m.–4 p.m.
Punta Sur
An eco-park covering the island's southern end, with the Celaráin lighthouse you can climb, a small navigation museum, a boat ride on the Colombia Lagoon, a small Maya site and long, quiet beaches. Entry is $25 or MX$475 for adults and $17 for ages 4–12. Open Monday–Saturday, 9 a.m.–4 p.m.
San Gervasio
The island's main Maya site, once a pilgrimage center for the goddess Ixchel. It's modest compared with Tulum or Chichén Itzá but shady and quiet. Entry is MX$231 (about $13), daily 8 a.m.–4 p.m.
The east coast
Empty beaches, crashing surf and a few beach bars along a coastal road. Swimming is dangerous in most spots because of currents and waves, and this is the side where sargassum lands; in October 2026, Chen Río, one of the few sheltered coves, was among the beaches with excessive sargassum. Go for the drive, the views and a late lunch.
Park prices above are from Cozumel Parks' own listings, which quote both dollars and pesos and say rates may change. Buy at cozumelparks.com or at the gate.
Where to stay on Cozumel
Downtown San Miguel
Walkable, full of restaurants and close to the ferry. Casa Mexicana Cozumel faces the waterfront. Downtown gets crowded on big cruise days and empties out at night.
North hotel zone
Quieter hotels a short taxi ride from town, including the adults-only, all-inclusive Secrets Aura Cozumel and the smaller Hotel B Cozumel.
South hotel zone
Closest to the best reefs, with dive-friendly resorts and all-inclusives such as Presidente InterContinental Cozumel, Iberostar Cozumel and Allegro Cozumel. You'll take taxis into town.
Different from home
Cozumel is one of the world's busiest cruise ports. On a day with several ships in, downtown and the beach clubs fill up from mid-morning to late afternoon. If you're staying on the island, plan your town time for early morning and evening, and check the cruise schedule before booking a popular tour.
Isla Mujeres
Isla Mujeres is about 4.5 miles (7 km) long and only a few hundred yards wide in places, sitting across the bay from Cancún. The town is on the north end, next to Playa Norte; the south end rises to cliffs at Punta Sur. Most visitors come for the day, so once the last ferries leave, the island gets noticeably calmer. In March 2026, overnight hotel occupancy hit 93.5%, so book rooms early for winter and spring.
Getting to Isla Mujeres
| From | Operator | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Puerto Juárez (north of downtown Cancún) | Ultramar | Around MX$600 (about $33) round trip per adult as of early 2026 | The most frequent service and the usual choice if you're staying downtown |
| Playa Tortugas (km 6.5) and Playa Caracol (km 9.5), Hotel Zone | Ultramar | Higher than from Puerto Juárez | Convenient from Hotel Zone resorts; fewer departures |
| El Embarcadero (km 4.5), Hotel Zone | Xcaret Xailing | $14.50 one way, $28 round trip; children 6–11 $11 / $21 | Quoted in dollars; 9 a.m.–7 p.m. from Cancún, 10 a.m.–8 p.m. from the island |
Book Ultramar at ultramarferry.com and Xailing at xcaret.com. Ultramar tickets are valid for six months on the route you buy, so you can pick your return time on the day. Ultramar allows one bag up to 55 lb (25 kg) per ticket and asks you to arrive 30 minutes early. Its terms also list an environmental sanitation charge required by Isla Mujeres' municipal government, so ask whether the price you're quoted includes it.
Watch out
The port captain closes the bay to small boats in bad weather, and big ferries can be suspended during strong winter cold fronts. Isla Mujeres' port was closed to small vessels on October 17, 2026 during heavy rain. If you're staying on the island, keep a buffer day before an international flight in winter.
Getting around the island
Golf carts are the classic way to explore. A four-seat cart cost around MX$1,600 (about $87) for a full day in early 2026, and in high season they can sell out by midday, so rent first thing or reserve. You'll need your driver's license. Taxis are cheap and quick for short hops, and bikes or scooters are an option for confident riders. Drive slowly: the main road is narrow and shared with taxis, trucks and pedestrians.
What to do
Playa Norte
Waist-deep turquoise water for a long way out, soft sand and beach bars. It faces north, away from the open Caribbean, so it's usually calm and catches less sargassum than most of the coast. Stay for the sunset over the water.
Punta Sur and the Ixchel shrine
Cliffs, a sculpture garden and the ruins of a small Maya shrine to Ixchel at what's often called the easternmost point of Mexico. There's a modest entry fee. Go early for sunrise or late afternoon for softer light.
Snorkeling and MUSA
Boat trips visit nearby reefs and the MUSA underwater sculpture gallery at Manchones. Certified divers pay from $157 to dive MUSA from Isla Mujeres through the museum's own booking site. Garrafón, near the south end, is a reef park with snorkeling, ziplines and day packages.
Tortugranja
A small sea turtle conservation center where you can see hatchlings and learn about nesting. Good with kids, and cheap.
Whale sharks
From about June to mid-September, with the first sightings sometimes in mid-May, hundreds of whale sharks gather to feed in the plankton-rich water north of Isla Mujeres and Holbox. July and August are the most reliable months, often with giant manta rays too; late May and early June are hit-or-miss. Tours run from Isla Mujeres, Cancún and Holbox, leave around sunrise and last six to eight hours.
- Snorkeling only: scuba is not allowed with the sharks.
- Usually two swimmers in the water at a time, with a guide.
- No touching, and don't swim in front of the shark's path.
- Use a licensed operator with life jackets for everyone and a proper boat.
- Book three to five days ahead, especially for July weekends.
- The ride out can be long and rolling; take seasickness medication in advance.
The exact season dates are set each year by Mexico's protected-areas agency, CONANP. See outdoors for more wildlife encounters.
Where to stay on Isla Mujeres
Centro and Playa Norte
Everything is walkable, from hostels and guesthouses to beachfront hotels like Na Balam on Playa Norte. Lively in the evening.
The north tip
Mia Reef Isla Mujeres and the adults-only Impression Isla Mujeres by Secrets sit at the very end of the island beside Playa Norte, with water on several sides.
Sac Bajo and the south
Quieter boutique hotels and rentals on the lagoon side and toward Punta Sur. You'll want a golf cart or taxis.
Holbox
Holbox is a long, thin island at the northern tip of the Yucatán Peninsula, inside the Yum Balam protected area, where the Caribbean meets the Gulf of Mexico. The village has sand streets, painted murals, hammocks over the water and no private cars; you get around on foot, by bike or in golf-cart taxis. The sea here is shallow and greener than Cancún's turquoise, and the sunsets are some of the best in the Mexican Caribbean.
Getting to Holbox
- Get to Chiquilá. The ferry port is about 2–2.5 hours by road from Cancún. Drive yourself, book a private transfer from the airport, take a shared shuttle that bundles the ferry, or ride ADO's buses from Cancún, which run only a few times a day.
- Park if you drove. Leave your car in one of the guarded lots near the Chiquilá dock, which charge by the day. You can't take a rental car to the island.
- Take the ferry. Holbox Express and 9 Hermanos run passenger boats across the lagoon in 20–30 minutes. Holbox Express lists MX$330 (about $18) per adult and MX$200 per child one way, with hourly departures from about 6:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. from Chiquilá and until about 8:30 p.m. from Holbox. Confirm the last boat before you set out.
- Grab a golf-cart taxi. They wait at the Holbox dock and take you to your hotel for a small fixed fare.
Small charter planes also fly to Holbox's airstrip from Cancún and Playa del Carmen, which turns a long road trip into a short hop. Ask your hotel for current operators.
Watch out
Holbox has only a handful of ATMs, and they often run out of cash, especially on weekends and holidays. Many restaurants, tours and small hotels are cash only, and card terminals fail when the internet drops. Withdraw enough pesos in Cancún before you go, and carry small bills.
What to do on Holbox
Bioluminescence
On dark nights, plankton in the shallow water glow blue-green when you move your hands or feet. It's strongest on moonless nights around the new moon and in the warmer months. Guided walks and kayak tours go to the beaches around Punta Cocos; go with a guide, use a dim red light and skip repellent and sunscreen in the water.
Flamingos and the Tres Islas tour
The classic boat tour visits Isla Pájaros, a bird sanctuary with observation towers, Isla Pasión's sandbar and the Yalahau freshwater spring on the mainland side. Flamingos feed in the lagoon's shallows for much of the year. Boats must keep their distance; don't ask a captain to get closer.
Punta Mosquito sandbar
At low tide you can wade out along a long sandbar east of town, often with flamingos and pelicans in sight. Wear water shoes and watch for stingrays by shuffling your feet.
Whale sharks from Holbox
Holbox was the original base for whale shark tours. Boats often travel well offshore to find the feeding groups, so expect a long, sometimes bumpy day. Some tours add a snorkel stop and a ceviche lunch on the way back.
Where to stay on Holbox
Stay in or near the village if you want to walk to restaurants and the ferry. Beachfront boutique hotels stretch west toward Punta Cocos and east toward Punta Mosquito; they're quieter but mean golf-cart taxis at night. Options range from hostels such as Tribu ($) to beach hotels like Casa Las Tortugas and Hotel Mystique Holbox ($$$–$$$$). Prices jump around Christmas, Easter and the summer whale shark season.
Different from home
The streets are sand, and after heavy rain whole blocks become ankle-deep puddles that take days to drain. Pack sandals you don't mind getting wet. Mosquitoes and tiny biting sand flies come out at dusk; per CDC advice, use repellent with DEET or picaridin, partly because dengue is present in Quintana Roo.
Day trip or overnight?
| Island | Day trip? | Ideal stay | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Isla Mujeres | Easy from Cancún | Day trip, or 1–3 nights | Overnight guests get quiet evenings and Playa Norte at sunrise |
| Cozumel | Fine from Playa del Carmen; long from Cancún | 3–7 nights for divers | From Cancún, the ferry plus the drive to Playa adds two to three hours each way |
| Holbox | Possible on organized tours, but not recommended | 2–4 nights | At least five hours of round-trip travel from Cancún; the island's best moments are at sunset and after dark |
Sargassum on the islands
Sargassum seaweed hit Quintana Roo hard in 2026: more than 152,000 metric tons had been collected statewide by mid-October. The islands are not immune, but their geography helps.
- Cozumel: The west coast, where the reefs and beach clubs are, is sheltered from the prevailing currents and usually stays clear. The east coast catches it.
- Isla Mujeres: Playa Norte faces north and usually gets little; the Caribbean-facing east side gets more.
- Holbox: Its position at the edge of the Gulf means far less than the Riviera Maya in most weeks.
Check the state's sargassum traffic-light map for the latest, and see when to go for the seasonal pattern.
Fees and costs
The Quintana Roo Visitax applies to the islands just as it does in Cancún: about MX$290 (about $16) per foreign visitor in 2026, paid once per trip at visitax.gob.mx, even if you fly home from Cozumel. Environmental charges show up in other places too: Winjet's fare from Playa del Carmen includes Playa's environmental fee, Isla Mujeres requires a municipal environmental charge that the ferry operators collect or flag at booking, and hotels across the state may add a municipal environmental fee per room per night. See entry for the full list.
| Item | Typical 2026 cost |
|---|---|
| Cozumel ferry, round trip | MX$645 (about $35) on Winjet; $32 on Xcaret Xailing |
| Isla Mujeres ferry, round trip | $28 on Xailing from km 4.5; around MX$600 (about $33) on Ultramar |
| Holbox ferry, one way | MX$330 (about $18) adult |
| Golf cart on Isla Mujeres, full day | Around MX$1,600 (about $87) |
| Chankanaab park entry | $31 adult |
| Punta Sur park entry | $25 adult |
| San Gervasio ruins | MX$231 (about $13) |
| MUSA dive from Isla Mujeres, certified | From $157 |
Save money
Prices on all three islands climb on cruise days and in high season, and many tour desks quote in dollars. Pay in pesos where you can, eat a block or two back from the waterfront, and on Cozumel book directly with dive shops instead of through cruise-pier touts. See money and budget.
When to go
- December–April: Dry season and the busiest months. Winter cold fronts can cancel ferries and dive trips for a day or two at a time, as happened in late January 2026.
- May–June: Hot, quieter, whale shark season starting, sargassum increasing.
- July–August: Peak whale shark months and Mexican summer holidays; hot and humid.
- September–October: Peak hurricane risk and the lowest prices. Ferries stop when the port closes.
- November: Calmer weather returning, good value and fewer crowds.
Hurricane season runs June 1–November 30. If you travel then, buy travel insurance that covers weather disruption (see health and insurance) and keep your plans flexible.
Practical tips
- Passport: Bring your passport book to the islands. You may need ID to board some ferries, and you'll need it if you fly out of Cozumel.
- Pharmacy and medical: Cozumel has the most medical services. Isla Mujeres has clinics, and serious cases go to Cancún. Holbox has only basic care.
- Luggage: Ferries limit you to one large bag per ticket. On Holbox, wheeled bags struggle on sand streets; a duffel is easier.
- Phones: Coverage is fine on Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, patchier on Holbox (see connected).
- Combining islands: Isla Mujeres pairs naturally with Cancún, Cozumel with Playa del Carmen and the Riviera Maya, and Holbox with Valladolid and Yucatán on a road trip.
Planning a multi-island trip? Try our trip builder, or let us put it together for you.
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