December is France's most festive month, and the first three weeks are the best time to enjoy it. Christmas markets fill Alsace and Paris, Lyon lights up its monuments for the Fête des Lumières on December 5–8, 2026, and the Alps open for skiing. Go between December 1 and 18 for markets and lights at fair prices; from December 19, French school holidays fill trains, ski resorts and Paris museums, and Christmas Day and New Year's Day close most sights.
The weather is cold and gray, with about eight hours of daylight, but nobody comes in December for the sun. Book early: Strasbourg and Lyon hotels for market and festival dates sell out months ahead. For the months on either side, see France in November and France in January; for the whole year, when to go.
Weather by region
| Place | Average high | Average low | Rainy days | What to expect |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paris | 46°F (8°C) | 39°F (4°C) | 11 | Damp and gray; snow is rare and rarely sticks |
| Strasbourg (Alsace) | 43°F (6°C) | 33°F (1°C) | 10 | Freezing nights, about 6 snowy days in an average December |
| Lyon | 46°F (8°C) | 36°F (2°C) | 9 | Cold, often foggy; cold evenings for the Fête des Lumières |
| Bordeaux | 52°F (11°C) | 40°F (4°C) | 13 | Mild and wet |
| Nice (Riviera) | 57°F (14°C) | 44°F (7°C) | 6 | Often sunny and calm; the mildest big city in France |
| Chamonix (Alps) | 37°F (3°C) | 22°F (−6°C) | 11 | Snow season starts; depth varies a lot year to year |
Figures are 1991–2020 averages (Chamonix 1981–2010); rainy days have at least 0.04 inch (1 mm). Snow days in Strasbourg are a 1981–2010 average. The shortest day, December 21, has sunrise around 8:40 a.m. and sunset around 4:55 p.m. in Paris.
Different from home
Alsace in December feels like a Midwest winter: damp cold that gets into your feet as you stand at market stalls. Most visitors underdress for it. Warm boots and a hat matter more than a fancy coat.
What's on in December 2026
| Date | Event | Where |
|---|---|---|
| Through Dec 24 | Strasbourg Christkindelsmärik (opened Nov 27) | Strasbourg |
| Through Dec 29 | Colmar's six Christmas markets (opened Nov 23) | Colmar |
| Through Jan 3–4 | Tuileries market (to Jan 3); Champs-Élysées market (to Jan 4); Champs-Élysées lights | Paris |
| Through Dec 27 | Notre-Dame Christmas market, Square René-Viviani | Paris |
| Dec 2–18 | Alsace Christmas market on the Gare de l'Est forecourt | Paris |
| Sat Dec 5 | Full 3 Vallées ski area opens | Savoie, Alps |
| Dec 5–8 | Fête des Lumières | Lyon |
| Dec 5–6 | Saint-Nicolas weekend and parade | Nancy |
| Dec 5–6, 12–13 | Ribeauvillé medieval Christmas market | Alsace |
| Sat Dec 12 | Les Arcs opens | Savoie, Alps |
| Sat Dec 19 | School holidays start; Aiguille du Midi due to reopen | Nationwide; Chamonix |
| Thu Dec 24 | Christmas Eve; Strasbourg market's last day | Nationwide |
| Thu Dec 31 | New Year's Eve show on the Champs-Élysées | Paris |
Christmas markets in Alsace
Strasbourg's Christkindelsmärik, held since 1570, spreads across about a dozen squares in the old town, with a giant tree on Place Kléber, and runs from November 27 to December 24, 2026. Colmar's six markets run November 23 to December 29 and are smaller and prettier. In the villages, Eguisheim and Turckheim run November 27 to December 30, Riquewihr November 27 to December 20, and Kaysersberg on Friday to Sunday of the four weekends from November 27 to December 20. Expect gingerbread (pain d'épices), bredele (Alsatian Christmas cookies), ornaments and mulled wine (vin chaud), sold in a deposit mug you can keep or return. Bring cash, since not every stall takes cards.
Insider tip
Weekends are packed shoulder to shoulder in Strasbourg and Colmar. Go Monday to Thursday, arrive before noon, and stay in Colmar, Sélestat, Obernai or across the Rhine in Kehl, Germany, about 20 minutes by tram from central Strasbourg. Village markets like Kaysersberg's are weekend-only, so plan your days around them. See Alsace & Lorraine.
Elsewhere, Reims, Metz, Lille, Amiens and Montbéliard run large markets, usually from late November to late December; check each city's tourist office for exact 2026 dates. Nancy's Saint-Nicolas parade, the city's favorite event, falls on the weekend of December 5–6. In Champagne, Épernay holds its Habits de Lumière light festival on the Avenue de Champagne in December. See Champagne and Lille and the North.
Paris at Christmas
Paris does lights better than markets. The Champs-Élysées lights stay on until midnight nightly and all night on December 24 and 31. The department stores on boulevard Haussmann, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, put on animated windows and a giant tree under the Galeries Lafayette dome; go on a weekday morning to see them without the crush. The biggest markets are at the Tuileries (to January 3), on the Champs-Élysées (to January 4) and at La Défense; the Notre-Dame market is small and pretty. Outside the city, Vaux-le-Vicomte's Grand Noël runs to January 3, and big Loire châteaux such as Chenonceau, Chambord and Amboise put up Christmas decorations. See Paris and day trips.
Fête des Lumières, Lyon (December 5–8)
For four nights, from Saturday, December 5 to Tuesday, December 8, 2026, Lyon projects light shows onto its monuments, with more than 25 installations this year, all free. It grew from a tradition of setting candles in windows on December 8, and many Lyonnais still do. About two million visitors come over the four nights, so expect one-way pedestrian routes, closed Métro stations and long walks between sites. Arrive at Place des Terreaux, Fourvière or Saint-Jean Cathedral right at dusk, and check the nightly schedule and map on the official site. If Lyon hotels are full, stay in Villefranche-sur-Saône, about 25 minutes away by train. See Lyon.
New Year's Eve in Paris
The free show is on the Champs-Élysées: a video projection on the Arc de Triomphe from about 11:50 p.m., a countdown and fireworks at midnight. Last year the security gates opened at 7 p.m., with bag checks and a ban on glass and alcohol; the 2026 details are usually published in December. Several Métro stations near the avenue close. Restaurants serve fixed-price réveillon menus, often well over €100 (about $112) per person, and you must book weeks ahead. See festivals and events.
Truffles and Provence
Black truffle markets get going in December at Richerenches in Provence (Saturday mornings), Lalbenque in the Lot (Tuesday afternoons) and Sarlat. Provence also holds Christmas santon fairs, selling painted clay nativity figures. See Provence and Dordogne.
Ski season opens
The high resorts open first: Val Thorens opened November 21, the full 3 Vallées links (Courchevel, Méribel, Val Thorens) open December 5, Les Arcs December 12, and most other big resorts in early to mid-December. In Chamonix, the Aiguille du Midi cable car is due to reopen December 19; check the operator's live status before you go. Early-December snow cover varies a lot, so high resorts are the safer bet before Christmas. See Alps.
- Best value: the weeks of December 5 and 12, when lifts are open, slopes are quiet and early-season lift and lodging deals are common.
- Peak: the two school-holiday weeks, December 19 to January 2. Lodging is at its highest, Saturday changeover days jam the valley roads, and ski schools fill. Book now.
- Your US pass: Epic covers 7 days at Les 3 Vallées; Ikon covers the Chamonix valley and Megève. Confirm 2026–27 terms on epicpass.com or ikonpass.com.
Holidays and closures
Christmas Eve (le réveillon) is the big family dinner, and France largely goes home that night. Here is what to expect on each holiday.
| Day | Status | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Thu Dec 24 | Normal working day | Shops and some museums close early; many restaurants close in the evening or serve set menus; the Strasbourg market ends |
| Fri Dec 25 | Public holiday | The Louvre, Versailles, Chambord and the American cemeteries close; most shops shut; transit on a holiday schedule. The Eiffel Tower opens every day |
| Sat Dec 26 | Holiday in Alsace and Moselle only | Elsewhere a normal Saturday; in Strasbourg and Metz, offices and some shops close |
| Thu Dec 31 | Normal working day | Shops close early; restaurants serve New Year's Eve menus; big crowds and closed Métro stations around the Champs-Élysées |
| Fri Jan 1 | Public holiday | Most museums closed, including the Louvre and Versailles; much of Paris sleeps late |
Christmas Day and New Year's Day both fall on a Friday in 2026–27, so both make long weekends. Book Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Year's Eve meals several weeks ahead; brasseries and hotel restaurants are the most likely to be open. Christmas Eve Masses at Notre-Dame and other big churches draw long lines, so arrive early.
Watch out
Seasonal closures from November still apply: Monet's Giverny is closed until spring, beach clubs and many coastal hotels are shut, and small countryside restaurants often take annual leave between Christmas and mid-January. In Alsace and Lorraine, the Mémorial de Verdun and Fort Douaumont close in January, so see them in December.
Crowds and prices
December has two halves. Until about December 18, Paris is moderately busy, museums are manageable and hotel rates are reasonable, while Alsace is at its busiest on weekends. From December 19 to January 3, French families are on holiday, Paris museums and Disneyland Paris are crowded, and ski resorts are full.
- Flights: fares from the US climb for departures around December 18–23 and returns around January 2–3. Early December is usually much cheaper. Winter schedules are thinner, so book early. See flights.
- Hotels: Strasbourg and Colmar sell out for December weekends far ahead; Lyon for December 5–8. Paris is busiest at New Year's.
- Trains: TGVs on December 18–20, 23–24 and January 2–3 sell out, and fares rise as seats go. Book as soon as sales open. See trains.
Save money
Do your markets on weekdays in the first two weeks of December. Paris hotel rates often ease between Christmas and New Year's Eve, while the Alps peak.
Where to go this month, and where to skip
Go: Alsace
The classic December trip. Base in Colmar or a village, and visit Strasbourg on a weekday.
Go: Paris
Lights, department-store windows and markets, with museums open except on the holidays.
Go: Lyon
The Fête des Lumières, then great food in a quieter city the rest of the month.
Go: the Alps
Skiing at high resorts early in the month; Christmas week if you book now and accept peak prices.
Go: the Riviera
Nice and Menton are sunny and calm, good for walking and museums. See Côte d'Azur.
Skip: beaches, Corsica, the islands
Most coastal hotels and restaurants are closed, and ferries run reduced timetables.
What to pack
- An insulated, waterproof coat and warm, waterproof boots with good grip for icy cobblestones.
- A hat, gloves and a scarf; thermal base layers for Alsace and Lyon's evening light shows.
- A cross-body bag with a zip for crowded markets.
- One dressy outfit for a réveillon dinner.
- Euros in small bills for market stalls.
See our packing list for the rest.
A sample week: Paris, Lyon's lights and Alsace
This plan runs Thursday, December 3 to Wednesday, December 9, 2026, catching the Fête des Lumières and weekday markets in Alsace.
- Day 1
Thu Dec 3 · Paris
Arrive at CDG. Evening walk on the lit Champs-Élysées and the Tuileries market.
- Day 2
Fri Dec 4 · Paris
Louvre at opening; Galeries Lafayette windows and rooftop; free Louvre entry is also offered after 6 p.m. on the first Friday of the month.
- Day 3
Sat Dec 5 · Lyon
TGV to Lyon (about 2 hours). Opening night of the Fête des Lumières; be at Place des Terreaux by dusk.
- Day 4
Sun Dec 6 · Lyon
Old Lyon and Fourvière by day, a bouchon lunch, more light shows at night.
- Day 5
Mon Dec 7 · Strasbourg
TGV to Strasbourg (about 4 hours). The cathedral, Place Kléber's tree and an evening at the markets.
- Day 6
Tue Dec 8 · Colmar
Train to Colmar (about 30 minutes), then a bus or taxi to Eguisheim. Sleep in Colmar or back in Strasbourg.
- Day 7
Wed Dec 9 · Home
Direct TGV from Strasbourg to CDG for an afternoon flight.
Lyon rooms for December 5–8 go fast; if they're gone, use this route without Lyon and spend two nights in Paris instead. Try variations in the trip builder.
Getting around in December
- Paris paper tickets end: old cardboard Métro tickets stop working in the Métro and RER on December 15, 2026, and can be exchanged for digital ones until January 14, 2027. Use a Navigo Easy card or the phone app. See getting around Paris.
- Strikes: fall 2026 has been tense, and French rail strikes have hit holiday periods before. SNCF and RATP publish reduced timetables the evening before any strike day; check the apps and the safety page before travel days.
- Market crowds: Strasbourg runs security checkpoints with bag checks at the bridges into the old town and restricts cars in the center. Leave the car at a park-and-ride tram stop. The State Department rates France Level 2 (Exercise Increased Caution), naming markets and big events among possible terrorist targets; expect soldiers on patrol and bag checks, and keep your phone and wallet zipped away from pickpockets.
- Winter roads: winter tire or chain rules apply in mountain areas until March 31, 2027. Ski-resort access roads are slow on Saturdays, and black ice is common in Alsace and Burgundy at night. See driving.
- Ski trains: extra Saturday TGVs run from Paris to Moûtiers and Bourg-Saint-Maurice in ski season; book them early for the holiday weeks.
Bottom line
Come in December if you love Christmas lights, markets, food and the feeling of a whole country celebrating. Early December is the sweet spot for Alsace and Lyon, mid-December for skiing at fair prices, and Christmas week for Paris if you plan around December 25.
Pick another month if you hate crowds and cold, want low prices over the holidays, or need everything open every day. For quiet museums and bargain prices, read France in January; for the start of the season with fewer people, France in November. Then use the planning timeline to book in the right order.
Add it to a route in the trip builder, or ask us to plan the hotels, trains and guides for you.