Why go
Corsica is the mountain that rose out of the sea. The island has white-sand beaches with water as clear as the Caribbean, granite peaks rising to 8,878 feet (2,706 m) at Monte Cinto, forests of pine and chestnut, and villages hanging from hillsides. More than a third of the island lies within a regional nature park.
It is also distinctly itself. Corsica belonged to Genoa for centuries and passed to France only in 1768, a year before Napoleon was born in Ajaccio. About 365,000 people live here. Corsicans have their own language, close to Italian, a strong identity and polyphonic singing traditions, and road signs are often in both Corsican and French.
The island is divided into two départements: Corse-du-Sud (2A) in the south, around Ajaccio, and Haute-Corse (2B) in the north, around Bastia.
How big it is and how long things take
Corsica is about 114 miles (183 km) long and 52 miles (83 km) wide, roughly the size of Puerto Rico. On a map that sounds small, but almost the whole island is mountains, and the roads are slow, narrow and full of switchbacks.
Different from home
Forget US highway averages. On most Corsican roads you will average 25 to 30 mph (40–50 km/h), less behind a camper van or around free-roaming cows, pigs and goats. Many coastal roads have no barriers, steep drops and room for barely two cars. Plan no more than two or three hours of driving a day and enjoy the views.
| Drive | Distance | Realistic time |
|---|---|---|
| Ajaccio → Bonifacio | 85 miles (135 km) | 2 hr 45 min–3 hr |
| Bonifacio → Porto-Vecchio | 17 miles (28 km) | 35 min |
| Porto-Vecchio → Bastia | 90 miles (145 km) | 2 hr 15 min–2 hr 30 min (the fast east-coast road) |
| Bastia → Saint-Florent | 14 miles (23 km) | 40 min over the Col de Teghime |
| Cap Corse loop from Bastia | About 75 miles (120 km) | A full day with stops |
| Saint-Florent → Calvi | 42 miles (68 km) | 1 hr 15 min |
| Calvi → Porto | 50 miles (80 km) | 2 hr–2 hr 30 min (coast road) |
| Porto → Ajaccio | 52 miles (84 km) | 2 hr via Piana and Cargèse |
| Ajaccio → Corte | 50 miles (80 km) | 1 hr 30 min |
| Corte → Bastia | 43 miles (70 km) | 1 hr 15 min |
Getting there
By air
There are no flights from the US. The easiest route is to fly into Paris, Nice or Marseille and connect. Corsica has four airports: Ajaccio, Bastia, Calvi and Figari. All have some year-round flights to the mainland, and many more in summer. Air Corsica and Air France fly year-round from Paris (mainly Orly) and mainland cities, and easyJet and Ryanair add seasonal routes, with flights of about 1 hour 30 minutes from Paris and under an hour from Nice or Marseille. In summer, extra direct flights arrive from many French cities and from European hubs like London, Geneva, Brussels and Amsterdam, which can make a connection from a US flight simpler. Book early for July and August.
Pick your airport by your route: Figari for Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio, Ajaccio for the west, Calvi for the Balagne, and Bastia for Cap Corse. Flying into one and out of another saves hours of backtracking, though rental companies charge a one-way fee. See Flights.
By ferry
- From Marseille. Corsica Linea and La Méridionale run mostly overnight ferries with cabins to Ajaccio, Bastia, L'Île-Rousse and Porto-Vecchio, among other ports. Expect roughly 10 to 13 hours.
- From Toulon. Corsica Ferries runs overnight and day sailings to Ajaccio and Bastia, and other ports in season.
- From Nice. Corsica Ferries runs crossings to Bastia, Calvi, L'Île-Rousse and Ajaccio, mostly in season. Day crossings take roughly 5 to 6 hours; check current schedules.
- From Italy. Corsica Ferries and Moby Lines cross from Livorno to Bastia in about 4 hours, and Savona and Genoa have routes too. Ferries link Bonifacio and Santa Teresa Gallura in Sardinia in about an hour.
Overnight ferries make sense if you are bringing a car from the mainland or want to save a hotel night. Book a cabin: the alternative is a reclining seat in a lounge. In summer, fast daytime ferries from Nice and Toulon fill with families and cars, so reserve well ahead. Most visitors from the US fly and rent a car on the island. Prices climb sharply in July and August and for vehicles; book cabins early. See Trains for reaching Marseille, Toulon or Nice.
Save money
Corsica's rental cars sell out and become very expensive in summer. Book as soon as you book flights, compare airport and town pickups, and reserve an automatic early. Insurance with a low deductible is wise, since scrapes on narrow roads and stone walls are common. See Driving in France.
Getting around without a car
It is possible but slow. The narrow-gauge Chemins de fer de la Corse runs a scenic mountain line between Ajaccio, Corte and Bastia, with a branch from Ponte-Leccia to Calvi and L'Île-Rousse; the trip from Ajaccio to Bastia takes about 3.5 to 4 hours. Buses link the main towns, with more services in summer. Combining the train with boat trips and a few taxis works for a slower trip based in two or three towns, but you will miss most of the beaches and villages.
The south: Ajaccio, Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio
Ajaccio
The island's capital, a lively port with ochre houses and palm-lined squares. Visit the Maison Bonaparte, where Napoleon was born in 1769, and the Palais Fesch, with France's largest collection of Italian paintings outside the Louvre. At sunset, drive out to the Pointe de la Parata and the Îles Sanguinaires, red-rock islands at the mouth of the bay.
Bonifacio
A medieval citadel balanced on white limestone cliffs at the southern tip of the island, looking across to Sardinia. Walk the old town, the cemetery of the sailors, and the cliff-top path toward the Pertusato lighthouse. Climb the King of Aragon's Staircase, cut into the cliff face. A boat tour from the harbor shows the cliffs, sea caves and old town from below. Parking near the citadel is limited; use the lots at the harbor.
Porto-Vecchio and Palombaggia
Porto-Vecchio's hilltop old town has bars and restaurants with sea views, and the beaches around it are among the most beautiful in Europe. Palombaggia has white sand, turquoise water and red rocks under umbrella pines; Santa Giulia is a shallow, family-friendly lagoon; Rondinara, closer to Bonifacio, is a perfect shell-shaped bay. In July and August, arrive before 9:30 a.m., since parking lots fill and road access becomes jammed.
The Alta Rocca
The mountains behind Porto-Vecchio: the jagged Aiguilles de Bavella, granite villages like Zonza and Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano, and natural swimming pools in mountain rivers. The prehistoric site of Cucuruzzu is a short walk through oak woods.
Sartène and Filitosa
Sartène is a somber granite town once known for its family vendettas. Filitosa, between Sartène and Ajaccio, has standing stones carved with faces about 3,000 to 4,000 years ago.
The north: Calvi, Cap Corse and Corte
Calvi
A Genoese citadel above a long bay with a sandy beach backed by pine forest, and mountains rising behind, often snow-capped into late spring. The harbor is lined with restaurants. The French Foreign Legion's parachute regiment is based here.
L'Île-Rousse and the Balagne
L'Île-Rousse is a lively market town with a covered market and a red-rock island linked by a causeway. Inland, the Balagne's hill villages, such as Pigna, Sant'Antonino and Lumio, are known for crafts, olive oil and wine. A small coastal train, the tramway de Balagne, runs between Calvi and L'Île-Rousse, stopping at beaches.
Cap Corse
The narrow peninsula pointing north toward Genoa, with a single road looping around it. Stop at the fishing ports of Erbalunga and Centuri, the Genoese watchtowers, and the black-sand beach at Nonza. Saint-Florent, a yacht harbor at its base, is a pleasant base for the Patrimonio vineyards and boat trips to the Désert des Agriates beaches.
Corte
The island's historic capital in the mountains, home to Pasquale Paoli's short-lived independent Corsican Republic in the 18th century and now to the island's only university. The citadel holds the Museum of Corsica. The Restonica valley, south of town, is a great day hike to glacial lakes.
Bastia
A busy port city with an old harbor, Baroque churches and a working, less touristy feel. A good arrival and departure point for Cap Corse.
The west coast: Piana, Porto and Scandola
The coast between Calvi and Ajaccio is the island's most spectacular, and UNESCO lists the Gulf of Porto, the Calanques de Piana and the Scandola nature reserve as a World Heritage site.
- Calanques de Piana. Red granite cliffs eroded into towers and shapes above the sea. The road between Piana and Porto squeezes through them, with pull-outs and short trails. It is narrow and busy; drive it early in the day.
- Scandola. A marine reserve of volcanic red cliffs, sea caves and ospreys, reachable only by sea. Boat trips leave from Porto, Calvi, Cargèse and Sagone in season. A typical half-day trip from Porto takes in the Calanques de Piana, Scandola and the fishing village of Girolata, which has no road. Smaller boats get closer to the cliffs and into the caves. Book a day or two ahead in summer and check the sea forecast.
- Porto. A tiny resort in a red-cliffed bay with a Genoese tower. A base for boat trips and for the Spelunca gorge hike.
Watch out
Boat trips are cancelled in rough seas, and Corsica's west coast is exposed to strong winds. Keep a backup day in your plan, and bring a jacket on the boat even in summer.
The GR20
The GR20 is the hardest of France's long-distance trails and one of the most famous in Europe. It crosses the island's mountain spine for about 112 miles (180 km) from Calenzana near Calvi to Conca near Porto-Vecchio, with well over 30,000 feet (10,000 m) of total climbing, by most estimates.
- Difficulty. Most hikers take 15 or 16 days. The northern half is steep and rocky, with scrambling on chains and exposure; the southern half is gentler. It is for fit, experienced hikers with good boots and a light pack. Many hikers do only one half, starting or ending at Vizzavona, which has a train station on the Ajaccio–Bastia line.
- Safety. Accidents happen every summer, often from falls on wet rock or from storms caught on exposed ridges. Leave a route plan with your refuge keepers, carry a map, and turn back when the weather turns. The emergency number is 112.
- Season. Mid-June to late September, when the refuges are staffed. Snow can block high sections in early June, and violent thunderstorms are a real hazard in summer.
- Refuges. The regional nature park (Parc naturel régional de Corse) runs the mountain huts along the route. Book refuge beds, rental tents or your own tent pitch online through the park's reservation site, pnr-resa.corsica, before you go; in July and August, places go months ahead, and arriving without a booking can mean being turned away. Wild camping and bivouacking outside the refuge areas are prohibited.
- Easier tastes. Day hikes in the Restonica valley, around Bavella or on the Mare a Mare and Mare e Monti trails, which link coast and mountains village to village, give you the scenery without the commitment.
See The outdoors for hiking gear and safety in France.
Sample seven-day loop
This route flies into Figari and out of Bastia or Calvi. It balances beaches, towns and mountains with manageable driving. With ten days or more, add a night in Corte and a day on Cap Corse.
- Day 1
Figari to Porto-Vecchio
Pick up a car at Figari. Afternoon at Palombaggia or Santa Giulia, dinner in Porto-Vecchio's old town. Sleep in Porto-Vecchio.
- Day 2
Bonifacio
Early swim at Rondinara, then Bonifacio: the citadel, the cliff-top walk and an afternoon boat tour of the cliffs and caves.
- Day 3
Alta Rocca to Ajaccio
Drive into the mountains via the Bavella pass, swim in a river pool, then cross to Ajaccio via Sartène or Filitosa. Sunset at the Îles Sanguinaires.
- Day 4
Ajaccio to Porto
The Maison Bonaparte in the morning, then north along the coast through Cargèse and the Calanques de Piana. Sleep in Porto or Piana.
- Day 5
Scandola
A morning boat trip to Scandola and Girolata. Afternoon drive north on the coast road to Calvi.
- Day 6
Calvi and the Balagne
Morning in Calvi's citadel, lunch in a Balagne hill village, and an evening in L'Île-Rousse.
- Day 7
Saint-Florent to Bastia
Drive through the Agriates to Saint-Florent, taste wine in Patrimonio, then cross the Col de Teghime to Bastia for your flight or ferry.
Where to base yourself
Most visitors move every two or three nights. Good bases are Porto-Vecchio or Bonifacio for the south, Ajaccio or Porto for the west coast, and Calvi or Saint-Florent for the north. Accommodation is limited and in high demand in summer, many places require minimum stays, and many close from November to March. See Where to stay.
Luxury beach hotels
The Porto-Vecchio area has some of France's most expensive beach hotels, and in August their rates rival the Riviera's.
Hotels in towns
Mid-range hotels in the main towns put you within walking distance of restaurants.
Village B&Bs and gîtes
Mountain and Balagne villages have B&Bs and self-catering houses at much lower prices than the coast.
Campsites
Campsites with bungalows and mobile homes are a big part of Corsican tourism, especially for families. Wild camping is forbidden.
Food and drink
- Charcuterie. Corsican pigs range free and eat chestnuts and acorns, and the cured meats are excellent: lonzu (cured loin), coppa (neck), prisuttu (ham) and figatellu, a liver sausage eaten grilled in winter. Look for the AOP labels on lonzu, coppa and prisuttu.
- Brocciu. A fresh whey cheese made from sheep's or goat's milk, used in omelets, cannelloni and fiadone, a cheesecake. It is in season from roughly November to June.
- Chestnuts. Chestnut flour goes into polenta, cakes, fritters and beer (Pietra).
- Seafood and game. Spiny lobster (langouste) is a summer splurge, often priced by weight, so ask before you order; wild boar stew is the mountain classic.
- Where to eat. Village fermes-auberges and inns serve set menus of charcuterie, soup, stew and fiadone, often for much less than coastal restaurants. Beach restaurants (paillotes) are pricey but memorable at sunset.
- Wine and spirits. Patrimonio reds and whites, Ajaccio reds from the Sciaccarellu grape, Muscat du Cap Corse, Cap Corse aperitif and myrtle liqueur.
Watch out
Plan to eat the charcuterie in Corsica. US Department of Agriculture rules generally bar travelers from bringing in meat products from Europe, including cured pork like lonzu and coppa, and CBP confiscates them at the airport, with fines if you do not declare them. Hard cheeses are usually allowed; fresh cheeses like brocciu are not practical anyway. Check Bringing things home before you shop. Wine, chestnut flour, honey, jams and canned fish are safe souvenirs.
Season and crowds
- July and August. Corsica gets millions of visitors a year, most of them in these two months. Beaches, ferries, roads and restaurants are packed, and prices peak. Mainland French school holidays run through the end of August. Wildfires are also a risk in hot, windy weather, and some trails and forests can close.
- June and September. The best months: sea warm enough to swim, everything open, and far fewer people.
- May and October. Good for hiking and touring, with cooler water. Many hotels and boat trips run from Easter through October.
- November to March. Quiet and mild on the coast, with snow in the mountains. Many hotels and restaurants close, and flights are fewer.
See When to go.
Tips for Americans
- Fill up the tank whenever you can: gas stations are scarce in the mountains and many close on Sunday afternoons.
- Honk before blind curves on narrow mountain roads; locals do.
- Carry some cash for small villages, beach parking and roadside farm stands.
- Mobile coverage is patchy in the mountains; download offline maps. See Staying connected.
- Corsica's nationalist politics are visible in graffiti and shot-up road signs. This rarely affects visitors. Tourist areas are safe.
- Respect local identity: Corsicans dislike being treated as just another part of mainland France.
What it costs
Corsica is not cheap in summer. Most goods are shipped from the mainland, accommodation is limited, and the season is short, so businesses charge accordingly. In July and August, even simple hotels often move up a price tier, rental cars can cost several times their spring rates, and the most popular beaches charge for parking. In June and September, rooms and cars are noticeably cheaper and easier to find. See Budget planner and Money.
Related pages
- Driving in France and Flights.
- The outdoors for hiking and beaches.
- Bringing things home for food rules.
- Food and Wine.
- Ferry ports: Provence & Marseille, Côte d'Azur.
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