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Baroque fountains and churches around the long oval of Piazza Navona under a blue sky

Piazza Navona, Rome · Photo: Krzysztof Golik · CC BY-SA 4.0

Rome

Roma

How Rome works for a first or fifth visit: the neighborhoods, where to stay, getting in from the airports, metro and bus tickets, taxis, walking, and the costs and rules that catch Americans out.

Verified October 202616 min read
LAZIOROMA
Best time
April–early June and late September–October; November–February is quieter and cheaper
Days needed
Three full days minimum, four or five to slow down
From Fiumicino
Leonardo Express to Termini, 32 min, €14 (about $16); taxi €55 (about $62) fixed fare
From Ciampino
Taxi €40 (about $45) fixed fare; shuttle buses about 40 min
Transit ticket
€1.50 (about $1.70) for 100 minutes; 24/48/72-hour passes €8.50/€15/€22
Tourist tax
€3.50–€10 per person per night by property type, first 10 nights
Emergency
112

Overview

Rome rewards people who walk. The historic center is compact, a little over 2 miles (3.5 km) from St. Peter's to the Colosseum, and most of what you came for sits inside or just outside the Aurelian Walls, the 3rd-century ring that still defines "the center" for taxi fares and city rules.

The city layers 2,800 years on top of itself. You will eat lunch on a square shaped by a Roman stadium, catch a bus past a 2,000-year-old pyramid and buy groceries next to medieval towers. That density is the point, and it is also why Rome tires people out. Plan fewer sights per day than you think, and leave afternoons loose.

This page covers how the city works: neighborhoods, where to stay, airport transfers, transit and taxis. For the Colosseum, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain and Borghese Gallery, see Rome sights. For St. Peter's and the Sistine Chapel, see the Vatican. For eating, see Rome food, and for Tivoli, Ostia Antica, Orvieto and Pompeii, see day trips from Rome.

Different from home

Your hotel will add a city tourist tax per person per night, usually paid at checkout and often not included in the price you saw online. In Rome it runs from €3.50 (about $4) in a hostel to €10 (about $11) in a five-star hotel. A couple spending five nights in a four-star hotel pays €75 (about $84) on top of the room rate.

Neighborhoods

Rome's 22 historic rioni (districts) each have a personality. These are the ones you will spend time in or might sleep in.

Centro Storico: Pantheon and Piazza Navona

Historic heart · $$$–$$$$

The tangle of lanes between the Tiber bend and Via del Corso. The Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo de' Fiori and dozens of churches are minutes apart on foot. Staying here means you can drop back to your room midafternoon. It is noisy at night around Campo de' Fiori and the bar streets off Navona, and few streets get buses.

Tridente: Spanish Steps and Via del Corso

Shopping and grand hotels · $$$–$$$$

The triangle of streets fanning out from Piazza del Popolo, home to Via Condotti's designer shops and the Spanish Steps. Elegant and central, with Metro Line A at Spagna and Flaminio. Quiet after the shops close, and expensive to eat in.

Monti

Village feel by the Forum · $$–$$$

Rome's oldest residential quarter, a 10-minute walk from the Colosseum, with ivy-covered lanes, vintage shops, wine bars and a fountain square (Piazza della Madonna dei Monti) where locals sit with a beer in the evening. Metro Line B at Cavour. A strong choice if you want the ancient sites close and a lived-in neighborhood around you.

Trastevere

Across the river · $$–$$$

Cobbled streets, laundry lines and trattorias on the west bank of the Tiber. Lovely by day and lively late into the night, which suits some people and keeps others awake. Tram 8 runs to Largo Argentina and the center in about 10 minutes. The quieter side, around Santa Maria in Trastevere's back streets and toward the Gianicolo hill, is calmer.

Prati

By the Vatican · $$–$$$

Wide 19th-century streets, good everyday shopping on Via Cola di Rienzo, the big Trionfale food market and a 15-minute walk to St. Peter's. Metro Line A (Ottaviano, Lepanto) gets you to the Spanish Steps in a few stops. Calmer and more residential than the center, with fewer postcard views out the window.

Termini and Esquilino

Station district · $–$$

Rome's main station is where trains, the airport express and both main metro lines meet, and hotel prices drop. The streets right around the station are scruffy and you need to watch your bags. Esquilino, south of the station, is Rome's most multicultural area, with good Asian groceries and the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. Fine for a night before an early train; for a full stay, Monti next door is more pleasant.

Testaccio and the Aventine

Food quarter and leafy hill · $$

Testaccio is a working-class district built around the old slaughterhouse, now known for Roman cooking, its covered market and the Monte Testaccio hill made of broken amphorae. Up the hill, the Aventine is quiet, green and full of villas, with the orange garden and the famous keyhole view of St. Peter's. Metro Line B at Piramide.

Jewish Ghetto

Small and central · $$$

A few blocks by the Tiber Island, home to Rome's Jewish community for more than 2,000 years. Restaurants serve Roman-Jewish dishes such as fried artichokes, and the Portico d'Ottavia and Great Synagogue anchor the area. Walking distance to everything in the center.

San Lorenzo and Pigneto

Student and nightlife areas · $

East of Termini, rough around the edges and full of cheap bars, street art and young Romans. Interesting for an evening; few visitors sleep here.

A Romanesque bell tower and church rising above the tiled roofs of the Trastevere neighborhood
Santa Maria in Trastevere among the rooftops of Trastevere, RomePhoto: Krzysztof Golik · CC BY-SA 4.0

Where to stay

First-timers do best in the Centro Storico, Monti or Trastevere, where you can walk to most sights and back to the room. Prati is a calmer base, especially if the Vatican is a priority. Around Termini you get the best rates and transport links in exchange for a less charming street.

StyleTypical rate for twoBest areas
Hostel or simple guesthouse$ under €120Termini, Esquilino, San Lorenzo
Three-star hotel or B&B$$ €120–250Monti, Prati, Trastevere
Four-star or boutique hotel$$$ €250–450Centro Storico, Tridente, Monti
Five-star or palazzo hotel$$$$ over €450Tridente, Via Veneto, Centro Storico

Rome's prices peak from April through June, in September and October, and at Easter and Christmas. Book three to six months ahead for spring and fall. In July and August rooms can be cheaper, but the heat is serious; air-conditioning is not universal in older buildings, so check the listing.

Small things that matter in Rome

  • Floors and elevators. Many hotels and B&Bs sit on upper floors of old palazzi. "First floor" in Italy means one flight up, and the elevator may be tiny or absent. If you have mobility needs or heavy bags, ask.
  • Apartments. Short-term rentals must display a national identification code (CIN) on listings. A missing code is a red flag. Hosts are required to register guests with the police, which is why they ask for your passport. See where to stay in Italy for more on apartments and booking.
  • The tourist tax (contributo di soggiorno) is charged per person per night, for up to 10 nights. Children under 10 are exempt.
Property typeTourist tax per person per night
Five-star hotel€10 (about $11)
Four-star hotel€7.50 (about $8.40)
Three-star hotel€6 (about $6.70)
Two-star / one-star hotel€5 / €4 (about $5.60 / $4.50)
B&B, agriturismo, category 1 holiday apartment€6 (about $6.70)
Short-term rental, category 2 apartment€5 (about $5.60)
Hostel€3.50 (about $4)

The city has discussed raising these rates again, so confirm with your hotel when you book.

Airports to town

Most flights from the US land at Fiumicino (Leonardo da Vinci, FCO), about 19 miles (30 km) southwest of the center. Budget European airlines use Ciampino (CIA), about 9 miles (15 km) southeast. See flights for nonstops from US cities.

From Fiumicino

OptionTimeCostBest for
Leonardo Express train to Roma Termini32 min nonstop€14 (about $16)Hotels near Termini, Monti, or onward trains
Regional FL1 train (Trastevere, Ostiense, Tuscolana, Tiburtina)About 30–50 minAbout €8 (about $9)Trastevere, Testaccio, or saving money
Shuttle bus to Termini (several companies)50–60 min, more in trafficAbout €6–7 (about $7–8)Tight budgets
Official white taxi45–60 min€55 (about $62) fixed fare inside the Aurelian WallsFamilies, groups of three or four, late arrivals

The Leonardo Express leaves from the airport station, a signposted walk from arrivals, every 15 minutes most of the day and every 30 minutes at quieter times. The first train from the airport leaves at 6:23 am and the last at 11:23 pm; at Termini it uses platforms 23 and 24, at the far end of the station. Buy tickets from machines or the Trenitalia app. Regular city transit tickets are not valid on it.

Watch out

Paper train tickets without a date and time must be validated in the green or white machines before you board. A ticket bought in the app for a specific train is already valid. Inspectors fine unvalidated tickets on the spot, and "I didn't know" does not work.

From Ciampino

Ciampino has no train station of its own. Shuttle buses run to Termini in about 40 minutes for around €7 (about $8). The cheaper route is a short bus to Ciampino town station and a regional train to Termini, sold together for a few euros, which can take an hour door to door. A taxi to anywhere inside the Aurelian Walls is a fixed €40 (about $45).

Fixed taxi fares

Rome sets flat fares between the airports and the center, for up to four passengers with luggage, at any hour. They were last revised in July 2024.

Route (either direction)Fixed fare
Fiumicino – inside the Aurelian Walls€55 (about $62)
Ciampino – inside the Aurelian Walls€40 (about $45)
Fiumicino – Ostiense station€50 (about $56)
Fiumicino – Tiburtina station€60 (about $67)
Fiumicino – Ciampino€55 (about $62)
Fiumicino – Civitavecchia cruise port€130 (about $146)

Most hotels in the Centro Storico, Monti, Trastevere and Tridente are inside the walls. Prati and parts of the Vatican area are outside, so the meter may run instead; ask the driver to confirm the fare before you set off. For cruise passengers, see cruises.

Watch out

Ignore anyone in the arrivals hall offering a taxi or a "special price". Licensed Rome taxis are white, have a TAXI sign on the roof and a license number on the door, and should show "Roma Capitale" on the door. Join the official taxi line outside. At Fiumicino, a cab licensed by the town of Fiumicino may not apply the Rome fixed fare. Card payment is required by law; check that the card reader works before you load bags.

Metro, buses and trams

Rome's public transport is run by ATAC. It works, with caveats: the metro is limited because every dig hits archaeology, buses get stuck in traffic, and service thins out at night. For most visitors, the metro plus walking covers 80 percent of trips.

The metro

  • Line A (orange) runs northwest to southeast: Ottaviano (for the Vatican), Lepanto, Flaminio (Piazza del Popolo), Spagna (Spanish Steps), Barberini (Trevi Fountain is about 10 minutes' walk), Repubblica, Termini and San Giovanni.
  • Line B (blue) runs northeast to south through Termini, Cavour (Monti), Colosseo, Circo Massimo and Piramide (Testaccio, Ostiense station and trains to Ostia Antica).
  • Line C (green) comes in from the eastern suburbs to San Giovanni and is being extended through the center. Check ATAC's site for which new stations are open when you travel.

Trains run from about 5:30 am until around 11:30 pm, later on Friday and Saturday nights. Lines A and B meet only at Termini, which gets packed at rush hour.

Buses and trams

Buses fill the gaps the metro leaves, especially in the Centro Storico. Useful routes include the 40 and 64 between Termini and the Vatican via Piazza Venezia and Largo Argentina, and Tram 8 from Largo Argentina to Trastevere. Night buses marked "n" run after the metro closes. Use Google Maps or the Moovit app for live routing; ATAC's own site lists service changes and strikes.

Watch out

Buses 40 and 64 and Line A between Termini and Ottaviano are notorious for pickpockets, who often work in pairs and target people with phones out or backpacks on their backs. Wear bags in front, keep phones in a front pocket, and be alert when a crowd presses in at the doors.

Tickets and passes

TicketPriceValid for
BIT single ticket€1.50 (about $1.70)100 minutes on buses and trams, including one metro ride
Roma 24 hours€8.50 (about $9.50)Unlimited travel for 24 hours from first validation
Roma 48 hours€15 (about $17)48 hours from first validation
Roma 72 hours€22 (about $25)72 hours from first validation
CIS weekly card€29 (about $32)Seven days, to midnight of the seventh day
MULTIBIT€15 (about $17)Ten BIT tickets

The time-based passes went up recently, so older guidebooks will quote lower prices. Do the math before you buy one: if you will walk most of the day and take three or four rides, single tickets cost less than a 24-hour pass.

Tap and go

The easiest way to pay is to tap a contactless credit or debit card, or a phone wallet, on the reader at metro turnstiles and on board buses and trams. The system charges €1.50 per trip under the BIT rules. Each traveler needs their own card or device, since one card cannot pay for two people. Tap again on every bus you board even if you are within 100 minutes; if an inspector checks, show the same card.

Different from home

Rome runs on an honor system with frequent checks. Paper tickets must be stamped in the yellow machine on the bus or tram as soon as you board, or at the metro turnstile. Riding with an unstamped ticket counts as riding without one, and inspectors issue fines far higher than the fare, on the spot.

Strikes

Transit strikes (sciopero) happen several times a year, usually on a Friday or Monday and announced days in advance. Rome guarantees service during the morning and evening rush hours, so plan around the middle of the day. ATAC posts upcoming strikes on its site, and Italy's Ministry of Infrastructure keeps a national strike calendar. See getting around Italy for rail strikes.

Wide stone steps climbing to a twin towered church at the top, with people sitting along them
The Spanish Steps and Trinita dei Monti church, RomePhoto: Ank Kumar · CC BY-SA 4.0

Taxis and ride apps

Rome's taxis are metered within the city, with supplements for nights, Sundays and holidays, and you generally cannot flag one on the street. Go to a taxi rank (marked with an orange sign near major squares, stations and sights), book by phone (Radio Taxi 3570 answers at 06 3570), or use an app. The itTaxi and FreeNow apps call licensed city cabs. Uber operates in Rome only with its premium black-car service, which costs more than a taxi.

When you call, the meter starts from where the driver is, so a taxi arriving for you may already show a few euros. That is normal.

Insider tip

Taxis are good value for three or four people going to or from the airports or Termini with luggage, and late at night. In the center during the day, walking is often faster than a cab stuck behind a bus.

Walking the city

You will walk 6 to 10 miles (10–16 km) a day without trying. Bring shoes you have already broken in with cushioned soles: sampietrini (the black basalt cobbles) are hard on feet and slippery when wet, and many sidewalks are narrow or missing.

  • Good walks. The Pantheon to Piazza Navona to Campo de' Fiori and across Ponte Sisto into Trastevere is about 1.5 miles (2.5 km). Via dei Fori Imperiali from Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum is about 0.6 miles (1 km), and is closed to cars on Sundays. The Gianicolo hill above Trastevere gives the best free view over the domes.
  • Water. Rome's nasoni (the "big noses", cast-iron street fountains) run with clean, cold drinking water. Block the spout with a finger and water arcs up from a hole on top. Carry a bottle.
  • Crossing streets. Drivers expect you to cross with confidence at the stripes. Make eye contact, step out steadily, and do not dart. Watch for scooters filtering between cars.
  • Heat. From June to September afternoons often top 90°F (32°C), sometimes 100°F (38°C). Sightsee early, rest from about 1 to 4 pm, and go out again in the evening as Romans do.

Different from home

Shoulders and knees must be covered in churches, including St. Peter's, and guards at the big basilicas turn people away. Carry a light scarf or wrap in summer. Sitting on the Spanish Steps and eating or wading at fountains is banned, with fines; see etiquette.

Driving in Rome

Do not drive in Rome. The historic center is a ZTL (limited traffic zone) watched by cameras, and entering at restricted hours, even for a minute to reach your hotel, triggers a fine mailed to your rental company, which passes it on months later with an admin fee. Trastevere, Testaccio, San Lorenzo and Monti have their own ZTLs, some active at night. If you rent a car for the countryside, pick it up on your way out of the city, at Fiumicino or a station office on the edge, and drop it there at the end. See driving in Italy.

Is the Roma Pass worth it?

The city's tourist card, the Roma Pass, costs €38 (about $43) for 48 hours or €62.90 (about $70) for 72 hours. Both include unlimited city transit; the 48-hour version includes free entry to the first museum or site you visit, and the 72-hour version the first two, with discounts after that.

It pays off only if you use the free entries on expensive sites and ride transit a lot. You still need to reserve a time slot for the Colosseum and the Borghese Gallery, and quotas for Roma Pass holders can run out. The Vatican Museums are not included, since they are in a separate state. For most visitors who walk a lot, buying tickets individually is cheaper and simpler. See Rome sights for site prices and booking.

How many days, and a four-day plan

Three full days covers the essentials at a decent pace: one for ancient Rome, one for the Vatican, one for the Centro Storico and a museum. Four or five lets you add the Borghese, Trastevere, the Appian Way or a day trip. If Rome is part of a first Italy trip with Florence and Venice, see planning for how to split the time.

  1. Day 1

    Ancient Rome

    Colosseum at opening with a pre-booked slot, then the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. Lunch in Monti. Late afternoon, climb the Capitoline Hill for the view over the Forum, then walk past the Theater of Marcellus into the Jewish Ghetto for dinner.

  2. Day 2

    The Vatican

    Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel on an early booked entry, then St. Peter's Basilica. Lunch in Prati. Walk back over Ponte Sant'Angelo past Castel Sant'Angelo, and spend the evening around Piazza Navona.

  3. Day 3

    Centro Storico

    The Pantheon when it opens at 9 am, coffee nearby, then the Caravaggios in San Luigi dei Francesi and the Trevi Fountain before the crowds peak. Afternoon rest. Evening up the Spanish Steps to Trinità dei Monti and the Pincio terrace for sunset over Piazza del Popolo.

  4. Day 4

    Borghese and Trastevere

    Borghese Gallery in a morning slot, then a stroll through the Villa Borghese park. Afternoon in Trastevere: Santa Maria in Trastevere, the Gianicolo view, aperitivo and dinner in the neighborhood.

Practical details

  • Hours. Many smaller shops close from about 1 to 4 pm and on Sunday; big chains and the center stay open. Churches often close at midday, roughly noon to 3 or 4 pm.
  • Money. Cards and contactless work almost everywhere, including taxis. Keep some cash for small bars, markets and tips. Refuse to pay in dollars when a card terminal offers it; see money.
  • Safety. Rome is generally safe, with petty theft the main risk. Watch for "petition" clipboard groups, people tying "friendship bracelets" on your wrist, costumed gladiators who charge for photos, and anyone who drops something in front of you. See safety.
  • Toilets. Public ones are scarce. Museums, department stores and cafés are your best bet; buying a coffee at the bar earns you the restroom.
  • Power. Type F and L sockets, 230 V. Most phone and laptop chargers handle it; hair tools from home usually do not. See staying connected.
  • Health. Pharmacies have a green cross and handle many minor issues. In an emergency, call 112. See health.
  • The US Embassy in Rome is on Via Vittorio Veneto, with consular services for US citizens by appointment.

Save money

On the first Sunday of every month, state museums and sites, including the Colosseum, Pantheon and Borghese Gallery, are free. Expect long lines and booking quotas. A cheaper everyday trick: stand at the bar for coffee, where prices are a fraction of table service.

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